Discussions on topics of interest to drivers concerning things they may not understand about their vehicles as well as articles on the future of the auto industry.
So we spotted a post on “X” recently titled “12 Reasons NOT to buy an EV” (electric vehicle), which leave internal combustion engine (ICE) powered cars as the only alternatives. We thought we’d have a look at it point by point.
The 12 Reasons Each With a Counterpoint
1) Purchase cost is way higher.
– Not true. Expensive models get the most press, and there are many of them, but there are some very, very affordable EVs. We’re not going to point to any manufacturers (we’re not in sales), just do some homework. And that statement completely ignores cost of ownership, which goes to EVs hands down. If cost of ownership is a foreign concept, its homework time again…
2) Depreciation is massive.
– There is some truth here, but it is massively overstated. In further truth, its too early to fully determine. The industry remains in infancy, prices are coming down thus lowering pre-owned EV prices.
3) The Batteries cannot be recycled on a commercial scale.
– Partly true. They can be recycled at scale, but this is still being ramped up. The mineral value is driving this.
4) The performance claims are grossly exaggerated.
– If this is a reference to speed, this is flat out wrong. If its a reference to range, its partially true. Most manufacturers are pretty conservative with range estimates. Consumer Reports data confirms this.
5) They carry no spare wheel so to reduce weight.
– This is actually true, but across the entire automotive industry. All vehicles, ICE and EV, are transitioning to refill kits rather than spare tires, again to reduce weight. Not all flat tires can be re-inflated so we’ll take this opportunity to tell the industry to ensure that at least a donut is available in all vehicles!
6) You can’t charge them from a flat or a house without a drive.
– Somewhat true, but a solvable problem. I live in a “flat” (apartment) and it has four Level 2 charging stations available and a charge port can be placed along the road in most cases at private homes that lack a drive(way).
7) Charging points are not ubiquitous enough to journey with confidence.
– Again somewhat true. More charge stations would be better, but planning can accommodate the vast majority (journeys) trips with the stations currently available.
8) Batteries that catch fire cannot be extinguished without plunging the whole car into a skip-full of water.
– This is actually true. However, fires (not to mention explosions) are far, far more common with the rolling bombs more generally known as ICE vehicles. Any EV fire gets so much attention that perception becomes skewed. Its actually very difficult to get an EV battery to burn.
9) Existing car parks are not designed to cope with the 50% higher weight.
– Sooo many things wrong with this. EVs are heavier, yes, but an EV of about equal size is only 15% heavier, not 50% (Camry vs Model 3)! Further, large SUVs (Escalade 7,700 lbs.) are actually heavier (25%) than most electric powered SUVs (Model X, 6,200 lbs))! Now there are hints that the writer of the piece is from Europe, where cars are generally smaller, but we don’t believe for a minute that car parks built anywhere are built to the lowest possible standards.
10) The time to queue and charge an EV is magnitudes of filling a petrol tank.
– This is true, but can an ICE vehicle be refilled at home??
11) The environmental damage of extracting minerals and making batteries is more than using fossil fuels.
– This is just flat out wrong and propaganda. Oil must be extracted as well.
12) Insuring EVs is massively higher than petrol/diesel vehicles.
– We have not found this to be the case, but in truth Tesla started its own insurance division because of high prices in some regions. We believe this is levelling out as EVs become ubiquitous.
And finally, a few of points in favor of EVs.
Regaining “fuel” while slowing down (try that in an ICE vehicle).
And that process (regeneration) will make your brakes last 100,000 miles or more!
Peace and quiet!
Far, far fewer moving parts to fail or require maintenance!
No more oil changes!
No more gasoline/diesel fumes to inhale while refilling!
And on, and on, and on…
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Remember that only proper service and repair procedures will ensure the safe and reliable operation of your car. In addition, proper safety procedures and precautions, such as the use of safety goggles, the right tools and the equipment should be followed at all times to eliminate the possibility of personal injury or improper service which could damage the vehicle or compromise its safety.
These posts are for information sharing purposes only, and should not be used in lieu of an OEM service manual or factory authorized service procedure. We are not in the auto repair business nor do we publish automotive service manuals. Nothing we include on these pages and posts has been reviewed, approved or authorized by any vehicle manufacturer.
Technology is always changing and what is current and accurate today may be literally out-of-date and inaccurate tomorrow. And when it comes to the current state of flux in the auto industry, nothing is more true.
The author has 25 years of automotive experience and has assembled the most extensive collection of symbols and warning lights anywhere (over 1,000!) and can help you open and start any keyless start car with a dead key fob battery. BA, St. Joseph’s College, ME: MS, Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, NY
Today has been cold with light snow. Coupled with the salts dropped on the pavement, this made for very dirty spray all over everyone’s car, including mine.
As a result, when I slowed to park the warning below was displayed in the center of my instrument panel…
We have railed for years about the uselessness of warning lights as well as too many of the notifications seen in message displays. Like here, or here. But this one lays it out perfectly!
The Warning
The Park Assist symbol in the upper left is accompanied by the warning that the system’s sensors are blocked and need to be cleaned! Exactly what the driver – me, in this case – needs to do, and exactly what would logical to expect!
As far as we at DashboardSymbols.com are concerned each and every warning light that appears on an instrument panel should be accompanied by instructions that are as specific as possible.
The car’s computer knows what is needed, and its high time it communicated with its driver properly. In most cases the fix will involve a qualified service shop, but at minimum the driver will have the knowledge necessary to communicate with that shop.
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Remember that only proper service and repair procedures will ensure the safe and reliable operation of your car. In addition, proper safety procedures and precautions, such as the use of safety goggles, the right tools and the equipment should be followed at all times to eliminate the possibility of personal injury or improper service which could damage the vehicle or compromise its safety.
These posts are for information sharing purposes only, and should not be used in lieu of an OEM service manual or factory authorized service procedure. We are not in the auto repair business nor do we publish automotive service manuals. Nothing we include on these pages and posts has been reviewed, approved or authorized by any vehicle manufacturer.
Technology is always changing and what is current and accurate today may be literally out-of-date and inaccurate tomorrow. And when it comes to the current state of flux in the auto industry, nothing is more true.
The author has 25 years of automotive experience and has assembled the most extensive collection of symbols and warning lights anywhere (over 1,000!) and can help you open and start any keyless start car with a dead key fob battery. BA, St. Joseph’s College, ME: MS, Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, NY
We came across a video some time ago from Now You Know – linked here – where a Toyota guy highlighted a Toyota key fob feature: Disabling a Key Fob. Press and hold the lock button, and while doing so, press the unlock button twice. This disables the proximity access feature of the fob.
We then verified it on a Toyota as well and it works! See the video below.
Now, not to worry, a simple press of the unlock button not only gets you in the car, it also restores the proximity feature.
But we’re not Toyota guys, so we set out to test as many cars as we could get our hands on. But before we get there, why is this even important?
The proximity feature of a fob only works within about 18 inches of a lock. But the fact is, clever thieves can tap into the signal from a live fob even though its seemingly not in use. Likely as not you’ve had the experience of using an unlock or lock button from 50 ft or even more. I can lock/unlock my car from a good 70 ft.
This is the signal that can be tapped from a live fob, essentially duplicated on a computer and your car is gone. The video is from CNN is right here.
And it can be done while you’re at home and the car is in you’re driveway! This is the value of the disabled fob feature.
What of Other Manufacturers
So who else? We tried a Nissan, but no dice. Actually, it turns that two Nissan models we tested do not lock or unlock with a touch of the door handle, so disabling is unnecessary. We tried a Dodge, which again did not work.
We then tested a Lexus, which is a Toyota product, it did work. It did not work on an Audi, a Volvo, a Polestar, an Acura, a Volkswagen or a BMW.
So, this is a call to all manufacturers to implement the feature, and to you the owner of any Toyota and Lexus models to use the feature. And if you have a model from a manufacturer that we didn’t test, try it and let us know in the comments if it worked – or not.
We did a video on the subject, linked below.
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Remember that only proper service and repair procedures will ensure the safe and reliable operation of your car. In addition, proper safety procedures and precautions, such as the use of safety goggles, the right tools and the equipment should be followed at all times to eliminate the possibility of personal injury or improper service which could damage the vehicle or compromise its safety.
These posts are for information sharing purposes only, and should not be used in lieu of an OEM service manual or factory authorized service procedure. We are not in the auto repair business nor do we publish automotive service manuals. Nothing we include on these pages and posts has been reviewed, approved or authorized by any vehicle manufacturer.
Technology is always changing and what is current and accurate today may be literally out-of-date and inaccurate tomorrow. And when it comes to the current state of flux in the auto industry, nothing is more true.
The author has 25 years of automotive experience and has assembled the most extensive collection of symbols and warning lights anywhere (over 1,000!) and can help you open and start any keyless start car with a dead key fob battery. BA, St. Joseph’s College, ME: MS, Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, NY
Typically at the beginning of the year, we take a look at the most visited pages and posts from the previous year — 2023 in this case.
However, Google Analytics made a major swap in August leaving us with with only five months of data, so that’s all we can report on. In truth, what we see over that period looks an awful lot like what we’ve seen in the past.
Top Pages and Posts
Of the over 1.5 million pages and posts visited, the top spot goes to a page dedicated to Jeep warning lights and symbols. And its been the top viewed page for several years running. Clearly a brand throwing too many problems at its owners 56,000 of you.
Another 40,000+ Ram owners found themselves on the site searching our Ram warning lights and symbols page, which came in at #4. Clearly FCA or Stellantis or whatever they are calling themselves these days have some work to do to improve vehicle reliability.
Jumping back to #2, we find the Check Engine Light page, representing one of the few remaining symbols that’s actually nearly universal across brands. One version is on the upper right of this article. The symbol pops up generally when an emissions control issue rears its head, as it did for nearly 50,000 of our visitors over the last five months of 2023.
Our overall Symbols page comes in at #3 with 45,000 visits. The page leads to some 800 image style symbols to search for a match.
Our Home page is at #5 with 34,500 visits. It of course, links to everything on the site.
Our pages holding Suzuki and Nissan warning lights and symbols come in at numbers 6 and 7, both with about 30,000 visits. And a symbol commonly seen in these vehicles, the Slip Indicator, comes in at #8. Models built in Japan are notorious for throwing this light when a gas cap is left loose!
Finally at #9 is the Electronic Throttle Control trouble indicator with over 27,000 visits. It gets to stand in for the myriad of newer electronic systems giving drivers newer headaches!
A final note — when an electronic system throws a light, it can often be resolved by simply restarting the vehicle. At that point its just like rebooting a computer. Exactly like rebooting a computer…
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Remember that only proper service and repair procedures will ensure the safe and reliable operation of your car. In addition, proper safety procedures and precautions, such as the use of safety goggles, the right tools and the equipment should be followed at all times to eliminate the possibility of personal injury or improper service which could damage the vehicle or compromise its safety.
These posts are for information sharing purposes only, and should not be used in lieu of an OEM service manual or factory authorized service procedure. We are not in the auto repair business nor do we publish automotive service manuals. Nothing we include on these pages and posts has been reviewed, approved or authorized by any vehicle manufacturer.
Technology is always changing and what is current and accurate today may be literally out-of-date and inaccurate tomorrow. And when it comes to the current state of flux in the auto industry, nothing is more true.
The author has 25 years of automotive experience and has assembled the most extensive collection of symbols and warning lights anywhere (over 1,000!) and can help you open and start any keyless start car with a dead key fob battery. BA, St. Joseph’s College, ME: MS, Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, NY
Some 13 years ago when we started this site, we believed that the driving public had no idea what it was up against in trying to understand the warning lights and dashboard symbols being thrown at them by their car’s instrument panel.
We had no idea where this would lead.
The Symbols Count
We now host 986 (now over 1000!) of warning lights and indicators! Nine hundred and eighty six! Most are image-style indicators but there are also nearly 200 text indicators.
Every year we update the warning lights from 47 manufacturers who have or currently do sell vehicles in North America and we made the mistake of counting them last week.
If this sounds absurd to you, well we couldn’t agree more. The table below illustrates the problem.
If you count them, you’ll find 22 different images representing suspension systems. Essentially every manufacturer gets to choose an image style to use. Some include text, which is helpful, and others include a sketch of a vehicle, which is also helpful.
But note the pair that look like a hat with an arrow inside and others that don’t bear any resemblance to anything an average person can relate to!
Idiot lights, or tell-tales, as they are known only in the industry, were designed to help drivers who didn’t understand how to read a gauge and to get your attention. To those who actually did know how to read the gauges, and watched them like a hawk, the tell-tales came to be known as Idiot lights. And the term stuck.
However, in today’s vehicles, there could never be a corresponding gauge to compliment a Check Engine light, or the ABS (anti-lock brake) light for example. There actually could be a pressure gauge associated with air suspension systems represented by some of the symbols in the table. But the industry is long past gauges.
There may be 30 to 40 picture or text tell-tales on a modern instrument panel, each connected to some system in your car. We’ve counted as many as one hundred in some models! And they may illuminate in twos and threes if a problem is detected. That is, a problem with one system causes other systems that are dependent on the first to be shut off. Each of those systems will have an associated, and now illuminated, tell-tale. Today, a driver needs to be an automotive prodigy to know what’s going on.
We’ve called on the industry to trash this near useless system in the past in favor of the car actually telling a driver what’s up and what they can and can’t do. The information is in the vehicle’s computer, but is accessible only to technicians with the proper equipment.
There has been some talk of simplification, but we update the symbols in new cars every year, and when we’re done with 2024, we can assure you that another 30 to 50 symbols will be added to our pages.
We think you, the driver needs help and we are here to do just that. We ultimately hope that the way vehicles communicate with drivers is changed. In the meantime, if you are confused by the symbols that show up on your instrument panel, bookmark this site. We’ll do everything we can to help you not feel like an an “Idiot”!
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Remember that only proper service and repair procedures will ensure the safe and reliable operation of your car. In addition, proper safety procedures and precautions, such as the use of safety goggles, the right tools and the equipment should be followed at all times to eliminate the possibility of personal injury or improper service which could damage the vehicle or compromise its safety.
These posts are for information sharing purposes only, and should not be used in lieu of an OEM service manual or factory authorized service procedure. We are not in the auto repair business nor do we publish automotive service manuals. Nothing we include on these pages and posts has been reviewed, approved or authorized by any vehicle manufacturer.
Technology is always changing and what is current and accurate today may be literally out-of-date and inaccurate tomorrow. And when it comes to the current state of flux in the auto industry, nothing is more true.
The author has 25 years of automotive experience and has assembled the most extensive collection of symbols and warning lights anywhere (over 1,000!) and can help you open and start any keyless start car with a dead key fob battery. BA, St. Joseph’s College, ME: MS, Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, NY
What is the Horseshoe-shaped Dashboard Warning Light?
Its cold weather time again and time again to speak about the Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS), and its associated warning light(s). Every year several million more drivers who have recently upgraded their cars will encounter the light for the first time.
These are two versions of the TPMS light, and either one is easily the most misunderstood warning light you’ll find on your instrument panel. And the fact that its shaped like a horseshoe doesn’t help.
First, unlike other yellow/amber lights, there is nothing wrong with your car — it presents you information about your tires and likely as not there’s nothing actually wrong with them either.
Why the Light Is On
There are two possible reasons why you are seeing this light. First, as the weather cools the most likely possibility is that all four of your tires are low on air (and/or the spare!). The second possibility is that one tire has a leak of some sort, but we’ll return to that in a moment.
Air expands when heated and contracts when cooled. Air that has cooled and contracted in your tires leads to reduced tire pressure. The warning light comes on and air needs to be added to your tires. Its important to note that air has not actually leaked out.
But the warning light does not discriminate between cooling air and actual air leaks. It comes on if one tire is low or all four is low, so more information is needed. Your model may or may not include a display option like the one shown. It is a read out of the tire pressure in the individual tires. If all four tires read roughly the same, within a pound or two, the warning light is the result of seasonal cooling.
And while on the subject, a thought for manufacturers. Every vehicle equipped with the tire pressure warning light simply must be equipped with this display. Leaving your customers in the dark by displaying the warning light only is unacceptable to us.
Now, if one tire is several pounds lower than the others, 5, 6 or 7 pounds or more, that tire is leaking and needs to be serviced as soon as possible.
If your vehicle is one that features only the warning light, the tire pressures need to be checked by hand to determine the cause — a single leak or seasonal reduction in all four.
If you’re not comfortable checking your tire pressures or with filling them, the good news is that pretty much every tire store, repair shop or car dealer will fill them for you at no cost. Its simple for them to do and they make a friend in the process, meaning more business from you down the road. Please drop in on one of them.
If you are comfortable with checking your tire pressures and adding air, by all means do so. But you will first need to know the required tire pressure. Look for a label just below where the driver’s door latches. The required pressures will be shown. They will match left to right but will likely be a little different front to rear. Set the pressure on the pump and trust it. It will stop pumping once the proper pressure is reached. You may also find yourself using a pump with a built in gauge. Trust it as well and be sure to add your spare tire to the routine.
Each tire valve has a cap that needs to be unscrewed and removed. Don’t lose it — it keeps water and dirt out and will keep the valve from developing a leak.
Remember that only proper service and repair procedures will ensure the safe and reliable operation of your car. In addition, proper safety procedures and precautions, such as the use of safety goggles, the right tools and the equipment should be followed at all times to eliminate the possibility of personal injury or improper service which could damage the vehicle or compromise its safety.
These posts are for information sharing purposes only, and should not be used in lieu of an OEM service manual or factory authorized service procedure. We are not in the auto repair business nor do we publish automotive service manuals. Nothing we include on these pages and posts has been reviewed, approved or authorized by any vehicle manufacturer.
Technology is always changing and what is current and accurate today may be literally out-of-date and inaccurate tomorrow. And when it comes to the current state of flux in the auto industry, nothing is more true.
The author has 25 years of automotive experience and has assembled the most extensive collection of symbols and warning lights anywhere (over 1,000!) and can help you open and start any keyless start car with a dead key fob battery. BA, St. Joseph’s College, ME: MS, Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, NY
So here’s a post I never expected or ever wanted to make.
I did what is seen to the right to my Polestar 2. Yes it actually was my fault. And as bad as it looks thankfully its all cosmetic and no one got hurt.
The post is not about my first accident in decades involving another car. What’s at issue is the absurd and truly frustrating experience I had getting the car repaired. Where and how to get body work is not a question one anticipates asking when getting a new car.
And I frankly in good conscience could not recommend what is a terrific car to anyone until after spending several months back and forth with Polestar Connect, which is the phone number you see below, and the key to what I’m going to tell you.
After the accident, I was able to get an estimate at one of two body shops recommended by my insurance company, and you see it here, just about $6,500. However, they called several days later declining the job because they couldn’t get information needed to actually do the repair. I was able to confirmed with them later that this was strictly about the proper handling of the high voltage battery.
EVs aren’t rocket ships — they are still primarily sheet metal and paint. But all EV manufacturers need to be forthcoming with whatever information is needed in order to work on their cars.
The two Polestar dealers in the area stated flatly that there was only one shop certified to work on the car. The dealers are part of the same dealer group and use the same shop.
Further, I was not allowed to simply go to that shop and get an estimate. No! The car needed to be put on a flat bed, trucked to the shop, after which an estimate would be done and the car would sit until parts arrived and the work was done!
It’s All Wrong
This is just wrong. First of all, being a part of this industry for 30 odd years, I can tell you the process goes like this: If the car is drivable, and mine was, one goes to the shop, gets an estimate, as I managed to do, and one returns home. Parts are ordered and when they arrive one drives the car back and leaves it for repair. A week, two weeks, three weeks later, depended on the damage, the car is done and one returns to pick it up.
I was in a rental car for 12 and half weeks. On the order of eight of those weeks were spent waiting for parts. This is simply not acceptable.
Second, not having a choice of body shops is a prescription for abuse. The original estimate, above, just about $6500. On the right is the certified shop’s estimate. This is not a joke, over $21,000! More than three times the original! A disclaimer is needed here as it is often the case that more damage is found once the work begins, but I don’t ever recall seeing a job jump by a factor of three!
To their credit, my insurer, #StateFarm, did not blink an eye. They get an A+. #PolestarCars on the other hand needed to be taken to task.
This is where the phone number shown comes in. As noted, I spent a good deal of time going back and forth with a Polestar rep looking to turn this on its head. They were in fact very helpful and went all the way to HQ in Sweden for a definitive answer, and it is this: Polestar is a spin off of Volvo and any Volvo store’s certified body shop can work on the car. In my area this alone triples the available options.
But it won’t be so simple. I tried to get an estimate from that local Volvo store before handing it over to the flatbed, only to be told they couldn’t work on the car. Turns out they’re wrong.
Secondly, in point of fact most new car dealers today regardless of manufacturer do not have thier own body shops and contract with local shops to do their work. A friend who drives a Lexus was sent by Lexus to the same shop I got the initial estimate from. In fact, that same shop is sometimes sent work from the local Volvo store.
So I’m going to go out on a limb and tell you that you can choose any decent body to do the work. They very likely have plenty of Volvo experience. So have your preferred body shop’s number handy, get on that Polestar connect number below and ask that a Technical Operations Specialist call your shop with the necessary information.
Better yet, don’t do what I did. Don’t get into an accident…
A final disclaimer: I had an accidental encounter with a staffing official from Polestar at a charging station. I relayed my story and he noted that they had a very difficult time getting good people in place at Polestar Connect, and that it was only staffed to his satisfaction in July of 2022, which is just about the time I had the accident. The representative I ultimately dealt with beginning in August was in fact terrific.
If you have your own experience with body repair on an electric car, good or bad, let us know in the comments below. Lets let the world know what’s happening so we can get it fixed. And if you’re getting push back from Polestar, leave us a comment here or send us a note. I’ll be more than happy to remind them of the results of my experience.
The author has 25 years of automotive experience and has assembled the most extensive collection of symbols and warning lights anywhere (over 1,000!) and can help you open and start any keyless start car with a dead key fob battery. BA, St. Joseph’s College, ME: MS, Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, NY
To EV or Not to EV…
Reasons NOT to by an EV Debunked
So we spotted a post on “X” recently titled “12 Reasons NOT to buy an EV” (electric vehicle), which leave internal combustion engine (ICE) powered cars as the only alternatives. We thought we’d have a look at it point by point.
The 12 Reasons Each With a Counterpoint
1) Purchase cost is way higher.
– Not true. Expensive models get the most press, and there are many of them, but there are some very, very affordable EVs. We’re not going to point to any manufacturers (we’re not in sales), just do some homework. And that statement completely ignores cost of ownership, which goes to EVs hands down. If cost of ownership is a foreign concept, its homework time again…
2) Depreciation is massive.
– There is some truth here, but it is massively overstated. In further truth, its too early to fully determine. The industry remains in infancy, prices are coming down thus lowering pre-owned EV prices.
3) The Batteries cannot be recycled on a commercial scale.
– Partly true. They can be recycled at scale, but this is still being ramped up. The mineral value is driving this.
4) The performance claims are grossly exaggerated.
– If this is a reference to speed, this is flat out wrong. If its a reference to range, its partially true. Most manufacturers are pretty conservative with range estimates. Consumer Reports data confirms this.
5) They carry no spare wheel so to reduce weight.
– This is actually true, but across the entire automotive industry. All vehicles, ICE and EV, are transitioning to refill kits rather than spare tires, again to reduce weight. Not all flat tires can be re-inflated so we’ll take this opportunity to tell the industry to ensure that at least a donut is available in all vehicles!
6) You can’t charge them from a flat or a house without a drive.
– Somewhat true, but a solvable problem. I live in a “flat” (apartment) and it has four Level 2 charging stations available and a charge port can be placed along the road in most cases at private homes that lack a drive(way).
7) Charging points are not ubiquitous enough to journey with confidence.
– Again somewhat true. More charge stations would be better, but planning can accommodate the vast majority (journeys) trips with the stations currently available.
8) Batteries that catch fire cannot be extinguished without plunging the whole car into a skip-full of water.
– This is actually true. However, fires (not to mention explosions) are far, far more common with the rolling bombs more generally known as ICE vehicles. Any EV fire gets so much attention that perception becomes skewed. Its actually very difficult to get an EV battery to burn.
9) Existing car parks are not designed to cope with the 50% higher weight.
– Sooo many things wrong with this. EVs are heavier, yes, but an EV of about equal size is only 15% heavier, not 50% (Camry vs Model 3)! Further, large SUVs (Escalade 7,700 lbs.) are actually heavier (25%) than most electric powered SUVs (Model X, 6,200 lbs))! Now there are hints that the writer of the piece is from Europe, where cars are generally smaller, but we don’t believe for a minute that car parks built anywhere are built to the lowest possible standards.
10) The time to queue and charge an EV is magnitudes of filling a petrol tank.
– This is true, but can an ICE vehicle be refilled at home??
11) The environmental damage of extracting minerals and making batteries is more than using fossil fuels.
– This is just flat out wrong and propaganda. Oil must be extracted as well.
12) Insuring EVs is massively higher than petrol/diesel vehicles.
– We have not found this to be the case, but in truth Tesla started its own insurance division because of high prices in some regions. We believe this is levelling out as EVs become ubiquitous.
And finally, a few of points in favor of EVs.
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Remember that only proper service and repair procedures will ensure the safe and reliable operation of your car. In addition, proper safety procedures and precautions, such as the use of safety goggles, the right tools and the equipment should be followed at all times to eliminate the possibility of personal injury or improper service which could damage the vehicle or compromise its safety.
These posts are for information sharing purposes only, and should not be used in lieu of an OEM service manual or factory authorized service procedure. We are not in the auto repair business nor do we publish automotive service manuals. Nothing we include on these pages and posts has been reviewed, approved or authorized by any vehicle manufacturer.
Technology is always changing and what is current and accurate today may be literally out-of-date and inaccurate tomorrow. And when it comes to the current state of flux in the auto industry, nothing is more true.
The author has 25 years of automotive experience and has assembled the most extensive collection of symbols and warning lights anywhere (over 1,000!) and can help you open and start any keyless start car with a dead key fob battery. BA, St. Joseph’s College, ME: MS, Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, NY